Kevin and Tess Parfett have been at the helm here for six years, the last four as tenants. They had previously been with Wetherspoons but really wanted to run a traditional pub where the emphasis was on sociability and good drinking. The Swan is certainly central to the small community of Conington - Kevin reckons at least 30 of the 130 residents are regulars - and the number of events and meetings show that it's also highly regarded further afield. The pub is especially popular with local bike and car owners' clubs - the BSA club meets weekly as does the vintage tractor club; Honda owners come along twice a month and Porsche and TVR owners meet monthly. It's also a popular destination for local cycling clubs. Parish meetings take place here, the local Morris Men perform several times a year and there are darts and bar billiards teams.

The Swan also raises funds for the local Riding for the Disabled and for the Bansang Children's Hospital in the Gambia.

On the real ale front, Greene King IPA and Abbot are the regulars, complemented by a changing guest from the Greene King list (the delicious Brains Reverend James on my visit). IPA is the biggest seller (more popular than lager) and a score of 100% was achieved at the last Cask Marque inspection. Although wine sales are picking up, this is essentially a beer drinkers' pub.

Food is served every lunchtime and (except Sunday) evening and features a wide range of traditional pub dishes e.g. steak and kidney pie, gammon, steaks, jackets, bar snacks and daily specials. There's also a children's menu.

The pub occupies a handsome 18th century redbrick building. The front door leads into the main bar with its open fire and tiled floor. To the left is the very traditional public bar, with bar billiards and darts, whilst to the right (in what was formerly the licensee's accommodation) is another small drinking area plus the separate restaurant. There's a particularly large and impressive garden, complete with kids' play area, plus the big car park which is one attraction for the various motoring clubs.

The pub is dog-friendly provided (says Kevin) the owners are well-behaved.

This really is the epitome of the traditional community pub appealing to the widest possible cross-section of drinkers - from Ted, now 84, who has been supping his brown ale there since he was 18 to the members of the Porsche owners club, everyone mingling happily together. If only there were many more like it.