It read "No Greene King Ale". Having rubber necked this, there was luckily a lay-by just a few yards away in which to do a handbrake turn and go back to this oasis in the heartland of what some would allegedly label the evil brew (careful! -ed). I was amazed - 6 fabulous real ales and 3 real ciders plus they are shortly to be stocking nectar from Cambridgeshire's only cidery Cassels, now fermented in Harston.

Robin Briggs bought the White Horse around 20 years ago and has slowly but surely turned a lager swilling domain into a fantastic pub serving the beers directly from the cask. He has transformed what from the outside looks like a small pub, by adding on a well appointed restaurant and impressive-looking en-suite accommodation in the grounds. However the bar with its low-beamed ceiling still has a lovely village feel. They have won the CAMRA pub of the year award for Essex two years running.

The pub is also very close to the Colne Valley Railway, so you can always chuck the family on the train whilst you set about important business, or even send them for a look around Hedingham Castle if they have the unfortunate, in my mind, predilection for National Trust type properties.

The beers stocked tend very much to have a local connection, (10 out of 10 for that, keep it local) with Mauldon, Mighty Oak, Walden, Wissey Valley and the like - fabulous; Nethergate beers are a constant. Rob has a keen interest in wine and the list constantly changes and would seem to be well done. Now Mr Brown can never help but to try to kick the aggressors in the world of beer, and Rob told me various tales that warmed the cockles of my heart of various large brewers offering purses of gold to stock their beers - but he has resisted. My two visits have certainly changed the routes I will take to go to different places and it is safe to say that traffic in Ridgewell may marginally increase. I can really guarantee a warm welcome and fabulous ale, wines and cider at...

The White Horse Ridgewell, Tel 01440 785532
www.ridgewellwh.com