ALE Spring 1998 No. 290

Company Profile No. 11 - Youngs

There were not many breweries which stayed totally loyal to cask beer during real ale's darkest days of the late 60s-early 70s. Holts of Manchester kept the real thing in all their pubs, as did Hook Norton, Timothy Taylor and, more locally, Adnams. The biggest all-real estate, however, was that of London brewer, Youngs.

Until recently, Youngs beers were a sadly unusual sight in the Cambridge area. However, they have now struck a deal with Pubmaster which has seen their excellent ales getting into the ex-Tolly estate in our neck of the woods, such as the Bun Shop, Burleigh Arms and the Six Bells in Fulbourn. Given that most Pubmaster offerings are from the big brewers, this is welcome news indeed.

The Ram Brewery in Wandsworth dates back to 1675 and was bought by Charles Young and Anthony Bainbridge in 1831. Their partnership was dissolved in 1884 and the business continued by the Young family, who remain very much at the helm. Up until the 1970s the pub estate was pretty static around the 135 mark, mostly in London. It was one of the first breweries to have a passport scheme for people visiting all their pubs. The estate now stands at 180 with acquisitions having been made as far away as Oxford.

The two classic Youngs beers are Bitter and Special. The Bitter (3.7%) is normally called Ordinary in the pubs, though it's anything but, being a truly hoppy ale with an astringent, bitter aftertaste - a real beer-drinkers beer. The Special (4.6%) is full-flavoured and well-balanced though still powerfully hoppy. Youngs beers are noticeably dry whilst their great London rivals, Fullers, produce fruity, aromatic ales. No wonder that most London drinkers swear by one or the other, but rarely both.

Winter Warmer (5%), available October til March is altogether different - sweet, malty and luscious. Ram Rod (5%), until recently only available as a bottled beer, is also a malty ale and frankly undistinguished. Dirly Dicks (4.3%) commemmorates one of the Brewery's most renowned tied houses (opposite Liverpool St. station) and is a pleasant, tasty best bitter. Youngs also produce interesting seasonal beers and a range of bottled ales, of which most intriguing is Double Chocolate Stout. Definately one you'll either love or hate.

Youngs have joined the increasing band of brewers making brewery visits available to members of the public without having to go with an organised group. Tours are normally at noon, 2 o'clock and 4 o'clock, at a cost of £5.50. The brewery is in Wandsworth High St. - phone 0181-875-7005.


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